My entries to the Eat. Drink. Blog. 2010 photo competition

Eat. Drink. Blog. 2010

Broad beans

Broad beans

The Vic Mac's Brewbar Nelson NZ

The Vic Mac’s Brewbar Nelson NZ

Tutto Bene Gelati Melbourne

Tutto Bene Gelati Melbourne

GM tomato graffiti Melbourne

GM tomato graffiti Melbourne

Takayama beef Japan

Takayama beef Japan

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Photos de Shiranui – the soy nazi

I challenge people to find better nigiri sushi and sashimi in Melbourne than ones from Shiranui. I could eat this when I am full, when I am hungry, when I am cold or when the weather is searing 35 degrees (even better). The dedication to freshness and quality is when you bite into each hand-crafted morsels. The rice is perfectly shaped, packed so they wont fall apart but loose enough to feel soft in the mouth. I heard from various food shows that it takes about 10 years for a sushi chef to master the art of shaping the rice. The fish is very fresh, the cuts are clean with no blood or visible connective tissue.

Interestingly, fish that is too fresh doesn’t taste as good as after they have ‘rested’ for a short period of time. It had something to do with rigor mortis making the flesh a bit touch and crunchy. The resting time varies between species and season. A bit like resting steak after it’s cooked or how espresso coffee taste better a week after roasting (rather than on the day of the roasting).

For my lunch at Shiranui on the weekend, we had the set lunches of sushi and sashimi. I forgot they don’t do omakase at lunch (unless booked), where you just leave the chef to decide what to serve you. Omakase means “it’s up to you” in Japanese I believe. When we were just watching the chef at work after eating out meals, he was putting some sea urchin roe into boxes, presumably for dinner service. I could not resist asking whether we could have some now. The chef agreed. The moment of surprise came when he some how spotted my soy sauce dish was already taken by the waitress and needed replacing. We were sitting at the sushi counter but my soy dish was placed in a blind spot close to the fridge. There was no way he could have known where my soy dish was (plus, my friend’s dish was visible and present). He must have noticed the waitress taking it away 5 minutes ago! Now that is attention to detail.

Note, when going for the omakase at night, listen to the chef when he explains whether the nigiri needs soy or not. Some come pre-seasoned with salt or soy already and a wrong move will cause his head to rapidly turn from his chopping and slicing towards the offending chopsitck holder. Shiranui: 247 Springvale Road Glen Waverley VIC 3150 Phone (03) 9886 7755

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Food bloggers conference

I have cleared the ED. There is no waiting to be seen and no one in the department. Time to play some loud music. Sorry, no one is allowed in ED now. We are CLOSED. We open just like your shop. Monday to Friday, 9-5.

There are some highly motivated foodie bloggers, starting up the Australian and New Zealand Food Bloggers Conference 2010. As part of the event, there is a photo competition sponsored by SBS, held at The Essential Ingredient. For some reason, I am thinking about Julie and Julia. I wonder how far can food blogs reach.

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The Vic Mac’s Brewbar, Nelson

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We drove through a rainy front and crossed from the east to west coast of New Zealand South Island. Heavy rain turned into a a steady drizzle. As we walked out of our hostel, the rain stopped and 20 minutes later, blue skies and warm sunlight hit the wet roads of Nelson. It was a very pretty town. The main Trafalgar st had flowers blooming on every lamp post. Hungry, this <a href=”http://www.macs.co.nz/home/”>warm bar</a> really made my afternoon. Has hot crispy chips and ice cold green apple cider ever been this good? Bright glow of the sun on wooden floors and table. I could have sat there for a long time.

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We drove through a rainy front and crossed from the east to west coast of New Zealand South Island. Heavy rain turned into a a steady drizzle. As we walked out of our hostel, the rain stopped and 20 minutes later, blue skies and warm sunlight hit the wet roads of Nelson. It was a very pretty town. The main Trafalgar st had flowers blooming on every lamp post. Hungry, this warm bar really made my afternoon. Has hot crispy chips and ice cold green apple cider ever been this good? Bright glow of the sun on wooden floors and table. I could have sat there for a long time.

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Cumulus – top eating experience in Melbourne

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New Zealand is beautiful. I keep thinking that when the world gets more and more crowded, the South Island will become a very sought after place. Buy a property there now! There is plenty of water, scenery, and green pastures for food. I have just returned from a holiday in New Zealand including the Milford trek. So happy, along with bunjy jumping.

Just before I left for my trip, 4 of us went to Cumulus Inc. for dinner. When people come to visit Melbourne, and there was one place you could take them to eat, I think this is it. Fine food in casual, shared setting. No table cloths, no lengthy speech about how to eat your food. The dishes ranges from delicate fine dining style to home/rustic (last year’s truffle gnocchi!) but all designed to share. After dinner, you could take them for a walk along Little Flinder’s Lane, past Kenzan, Coda, Yu-yu, Movida and see some graffiti in narrow laneways.

We ended up having 12 dishes all up, and if not including wine or oysters, the bill came would be $40 per person. Two dishes were the favorites of the day. The crispy school prawns with chili, garlic and spring onions was sweet, juicy and the shells all edible. Surely inspired from travels in Asia. Second was the mussels, jamon, parsley and saffron sauce. Perfectly balanced flavours that we have never seen with mussels. We certainly did not forget to ask for more of the white sourdough/wet-dough bread to mop up the sauce. That bread is always so nice, I could order just the prawns and mussels and my evening would be complete.

Going again tonight =)

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Rapadura sugar, Costa Rica

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For those who have chewed fresh sugar cane before or tasted sugar can juice straight from the source, this is the sugar version of sugar cane. Caramel is deep, toasted nuts, and a fine amount of acid that makes eating this just like a good natural candy. A god moment for sugar. Yes, there is a moment like this. Please tell me where to find more

Rapadura is essentially evaporated sugar cane juice, produced mainly in South America. No high eating ensure the fruity flavours are still intact. Muscavado, demarara sugars are all made by heating sugar cane juice until it cystalization occours. White sugar is made by repeated heating and centrifuge spinning. Brown sugar is just white sugar with added molasses.

Sweet tooth?

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Human intestine and KFC

It was so alive. Vivid colours just like a Taiwanese children’s encyclopaedia – “Little scientist of 100 topics”. Even Netter would be turning in his grave. I was holding onto a segment of small intestine, orangy-pink colour, surrounded by an array of tiny pulsating arterioles arranged neatly like a fan. I was getting hungry and soon the numbing feeling in the arms from retracting parts of abdomin was hypnotic enough to trasmit me to a few blocks away. The thought of crispy fried chicken filled my mind. Mmmm.

Or the other time on a late ward-round at 6pm without lunch yet. I saw a tall glass of chocholate milk shake on a table near a patient. My note writing turned into thoughts of a cold iced milk-tea from a greasy, Asian restaurant. I was so hungry and thirsty. On the occasions after leaving the hospital at 9 pm while being rostered on till 5:30pm, a plate of good salty and oily deep fried pork spare ribs from Dessert House on Swanston st, or a plate of roasted duck egg shiffon from A1 on Russell st, topped with a cold glass of iced milk tea is just amazing. Then I can bitch/gossip about the day.

Location and environment. Hervé This strongly believed that the environment in which you eat the food plays a vital role in how the food is percieved. Heston Blumenthal let you listen to the sound of crashing waves, wind and sea gulls while eating a dish that lookes like a beach, complete with sand and salty foam. Wonderful. I enjoyed a bowl of wedges at Cape Bridgewater (photo) yesterday.

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Osso Buco with jus and a garden of vegetables

I am not sure when did the craze for locally grown, personally sourced heilroom vegetables, herbs and wild vegetables start but many restaurants are offering their “salad” or “garden” dishes. The Embrasse Restaurant had a dish of garden veggies. The Royal Mail follows what The French Laundry does – growing their own vegetables, or have very close relationships with their farmers near by.

Or el Bulli approach takes it to a new level, with dishes inspired and looking like nature. Edible soil from chocolate or olives, flowers made from fruit and snow made from coconut flavoured ice. Correct me if I am wrong, but I think Ben from Attica has a dish with edible soil too.

All that said, I have my own petty attempt. Just sticking to the mantra to cook each vegetables individually and letting the best of each vegetable shine. There are some baby carrots glazed, blanched sugar snap peas and onions picked in sherry vinegar and sugar. A poached egg and some pancetta for the creamy taste and salt.

For mains, It was osso buco. Brown each piece on a hot heavy pan and then with the juiced/oil from the meat, add 1 onion diced and a few sliced of bacon diced and cook until lightly caramalized. Deglaze with a cup of red wine ( I used a shiraz viognier), add 2 stickes of celery finely diced, a little balsamic vinegar and a table spoon of soy (yes for the umami) and a quater of a star anise. Pour enough water or veal stock to cover the meat completely, put the lid on and simmer slowly for 3 hours. Remove the meat and set aside with some cling wrap ove rit to keep it moist, strain the cooking liquid and discard all solids. Return liquid in pan and reduce until it starts to thicken a little. Taste it and add more vinegar or salt if needed. Add some shallots that hav ebeen halved and continue to reduced until it coats a spoon nicely. Finish the sauce with 1-2 table spoons of butter.

Serve!

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In the middle of the night – Le Cordon Bleu

It’s 2:30 am. I am half way though my night shift in Hamilton. 6 patients in ED earlier. It hasn’t been that bad of a night compared to some of the patients themselves. Now tea and dry biscuits are keeping me happy.

Paris Campus

I am planning to take my 3rd year off (2011) from the conveyor belt of medical training. Don’t worry, it will keep running until someone decides to fall or accidentally hit the red button. So what will I do in this year? The main aim is actually to join a cookery school in France. I have been looking at Le Cordon Bleu, Paris, a school of classical French cooking for designed for training people to become chefs.  It has branches around the world, including Sydney, but that just misses the point of French cooking. Many types of courses are available, including regular terms on cuisine, patisserie wine, and many short/one day courses on specific topics. The problem is it’s almost 8000 euros per term! I think I will need to locum a bit if I want to make this work. Anyway, when I say year off, it just means off the conveyor belt. I also wanted to try working in a less developed country for a different experience.

For those who want an idea of what it’s like in the school. There is a good and humorous read by Michael Booth – Sacre Cordon Bleu: What the French Know About Cooking. It’s about a journalist who pauses his regular job an joins the cookery school. Let me know if you want to borrow it.

(Picture from Le Cordon Bleu website)

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Black pan

This is while I was seasoning it. You can see the handle is still metallic while the other parts have turned black. I posted this just for illustration. But essentially, for cast iron or iron skillet pans, you need to season the pans before you use it for the fist time. Wash the pan with soapy water, dry it and then let it get hot on a gas stove or oven at the max to dry it off completely. then coat the whole pan including handles with vegetable oil rubbed on with paper towel. Put the pan back on the heat source and just let it burn. On the gas stove on a moderate flame, I let it heat up for a good 10 min. the whole pan starts to turn black – first from the center where it’s the hottest before spreading to the sides and handles.  Once it’s dark, you can re-coat it with another layer of oil and the heat it again. The black coating is a result of the fat reacting with the iron and oxygen.

Note, once it has turned black, you can actually over do it until the black bits start peeling off.  So take it once you think most of the pan is black. you can always heat the other parts by moving the pan (esp the handle) over the fire.

When the pan is seasoned, it should behave almost like a non-stick pan. Acidic food will tend to corrode the blakc coating, so will vigorous scrubbing. It is a bit ironic that the most indestructible pans should be taken care of this way. I wish the black coating was permanent. Anyhow, these pans are sure to turn any guests into believing you are chef :P

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Market Lane Coffee, Prahran Market!

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Market Lane Coffee

I crossed the latte line again. After a long trip from Hamilton to Port Fairy and back to Melbourne, I was very happy to arrive  before they closed. I ran like a kid seeing and really believing Santa is real. Fleur Studd’s (her dad is an authorative on cheese, appearing on the Epicure regularly, books and TV) opening is amongst the many specialty cafe’s that has appeared in Melbourne this year. I think she might have worked in Mammouth Coffee in London’s Bourough Market (? corrections).

The focus of the cafe is to highlight a few single origins at a time and market green beans at the same time. Many customers ordered the pour-over coffees (filter paper in a cup with a hole at the bottom).  On the day we went they had ran out of some beans for the espresso blend. The flat white was ok only. At least, it was overshadowed by the La Candelilla (what a lovely name!), a Geisha variety from Costa Rica. 

The interior was stunning. Open design, raw, slightly distressed wooden tabled and metallic chairs. The flowers on the table were gorgeous, but the use of the small Italian juice bottles is getting a little common in Melbourne.

I think Prahn is way overdue for decent coffee given their superior fresh market. I said to my friends, the whole concept, the emotions, the feel behind such cafe’s makes me love Melbourne alot!

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Food for thought

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At 3 am on saturday morning, while seeing drunk patients and kids with gastro in a busy night at the ED, I thought how many other jobs require one to be awake at this time? Sleepiness fogging my brain, hearing abuse from people and some vomit every now and then?

Pilots, soldiers and the end of the 000 line.
I suppose IT for a large company get to be on call.
Bakers?

I am reading Food for Thought. The closest comparison on food and art in today’s ‘artistic’ sense. Ferran Adria’s creativity is just mind blowing. The front cover definitely reminds me of the Simpsons. Inside is… I am still reading.

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o-toro

 

The Japanese seems to have a more powerful radar at spotting what is good to eat. From being obsessed with French cusine (at the peak of French food dominance) to hearding cows that have meat looking more like fat with finely dispersed muscle fibers. A walk in Tsukiji Fish Market and soon you will discover where al the large and high quality seafood caught around the world gets sold.

Last year me and my brother and his local friends went to the fish market in the morning and lined up for a seat at a sushi bar. There was at least 10-20 different shops in the few lane ways that also sell cooking equipment, herbs and garnishes that go well with seafood. This was about 10 am. We waited for about 30 min and were seated on the counter and squeezed close the next person beside you. There could not have been more than 20 customers at one time in this restaurant.

This was the o-toro (the fattiest cut of the tuna) in the 8-10 pieces sushi degustation that lasted about 30 min. Next customer please. I respect that.

The link’s source of information is from Izakaya: The Japanese Pub Cookbook. It has good descriptions of the yakitori culture and has a good bakground information of a range Izakaya establishments in Japan.

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The Spanish wave in The Royal Mail

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This blog – Cooking Issues – by chefs of the French Culinary Institute of America is 100% food for thought. I am very taken back by the onslaught of the quest for perfection and knowledge in cooking now. I recently got the new edition of  On Food and Cooking:  The Science and Lore of the Kitchen by Harold McGee and I am finding myself unable to stop flipping though this collection of all the whys of cooking and food.

I think this exciting wave of energy was started by the chefs in Basque and Catalonia (of course, I have to say Ferran Adria is a key in this). Even if the techniques discussed are traditional, the science and testing is new. Where else can one find a topic on fish killing by spinal cord destruction and fish anesthesia? And a detailed description on the Japanese art of killing fish.

Last week we went to The Royal Mail. Dan Hunter, head chef, worked in Mugaritz for 2 years before starting at Royal Mail. There is definitely some of the wildness in creativity but it is used spariingly. His food now is based showing the best and freshness of ingredients. The food is at times simple and allows customers to experience what a pea really should taste like. Some Japanese influences in flavours too. Many of the vegetables are grown on site or picked from the wild.

Check out more photos from my facebook

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Which chicken?

This is a shop in La Boqueria, Barcelona, selling only chicken (? maby duck).

It’s great when writing medical notes I add a question mark in front of a point – it makes it all ok and valid.

I was reading Heston Blummenthal’s book In Search of Perfection on the perfect roast chicken (bookvideo) I am drooling to make a roast chicken. Secretly I haven’t tried roasting a whole bird. Which chicken should I use? Look at the chioice of birds in that shop!

Heston liked the Bresse chicken from France, though he used one from the UK with good flavour while supporting local farmers. The recipie involved soaking the bird in brine over night, drying it in the fridge, roasting it at a low temperature and then browning the skin to finish it off.

Sadly in Hamilton, there isn’t much to choose from. When I fire that oven, I will post the chicken on my blog. Tomorrow is apple and rhubarb with crumble to top.

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Re-drawing the latte line with the Indonesian Sidikalong

My rig!

I have moved my set up to Hamilton along with some beans. Since I wont be back in Melbourne for anthother 2 weeks, I put some beans, sealed in a airtight box in the freezer. I wonder how this will turn out?

But…something special here. The Indonesian Sidikalong. It’s sweet, bursting with stewed berries, and medium body. It’s the least bitter coffee I have ever tried. Even the grinds hit me “wow” before brewing it. Oddly though, the grind neede to be much finer compared to other beans I have used before.

Thanks to The Maling Room. Super single origin.

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Ding Tai Fong V Hu Tong Dumplings

Photos of Hu Tong Dumpling House

A few weeks ago a few of us went to Sydney’s Ding Tai Fong for xiao long bao. After reading Matt Preston’s positive review of Hu Tong Dumpling House in Market Lane, Melbourne I was determined to try it out and come up with a winner for people mad about dumplings.

I quite like the upstairs seating in Hu Tong. The colourful squares of window has a ‘Melbourne warehouse’ feel.

Straight to the dumplings. Ding Tai Fong’s creations was superb. A good balance of meat and soup. The pastry was thin. The sauce supplied was plentiful along with a head of young ginger. Hu Tong Dumpling House’s parcels had a pastry that was parhaps slightly thinner. But the pork filling was lost in the soup. I think the ratio of soup to pork was too much and the dumplings didn’t have substance in the mouth. The pork also had a slight boody taste to it. And sadly they probably ran out of ginger and sauce that night because we had 2-3 slivers of ginger plus people had to share bottles of sauce that evening.

Other dishes included chilli pork green beans which were excellent in both places. Matt commented that Hu Tong had more choices in terms of non-dumpling dishes. While this is true, Ding Tai Fong offeres more than enough dishes plus they have many more types of dumplings, including a crab roe + pork combinaiton that is just devine.

Service wise, there is no compairson. Ding Tai Fong makes you actually feel welcome. While the staff at Hu Tong look rather ticked off at their on busy schedual. Either way, both retaurants have a long waiting line. So book ahead or arrive early. Someone told be that Hu tong dosent take bookings between 6-8pm but customers did arrive with bookings at that time when I visited.

So there it is. Ding Tai Fong wins. Dumplings.

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Crossing the latte line to a twin that no doctor should separate

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I was made note by one of the doctors that I have crossed the latte line while driving to Hamilton (not Island) – the place I will work for the next 9 weeks. On my few days break, I have returned to Melbourne to pick up my coffee machine. The first stop was Seven Seeds before I even got home. It wasn’t the caffeine I swear. It’s the smell and vibe and tingling when I see smooth and silky milk mixed with crema.

Today I went to Proud Mary, owned (as far as I know) by Nolan who used to be the ex-owner of Liar Liar. The most impressive thing is the metallic grey-blue, custom built, 6 group Synesso based on the Hydra model. This is a conjoined twin that no doctor should try and separate. Together with the deep baby blue cups, it’s a sight worth a detour. The blue beast even has foot pedal switch for steam. Around the bar, th whole set up included a syphon area and a Clover machine. It wasn’t so busy this afternoon and the coffee was great. I wonder when the place becomes packed will Nolan and his team be able serve all the different methods of brewing consistently. Lucky for them that there are not so many seats. Grab them while you can.

Open 7-4 weekdays and 8-4 weekends. 172 Oxford st, Collingwood

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A pause in life

  

The moment I stepped into the unassuming doors of Time and Tide, Port Fairy, and and saw the deep blue, sunny ocean throgh the large windows, green grass swaying in the gentle wind and the white room with plain wooden tables I knew I was a bit closer to have my own cafe.

Seem so dream-like when less than 1 hour ago we were doing chest compressions on a man lying in a pool of vomit.

The cosy, home-like atmosphere is so understated. Then it made me think what made many other beach side restaurant/cafes just not the same: they are too commercialized. too much space between tables and walls. Time and Tide’s cute and bright room looked like a natural extension of a well-designed home and no the show-off, gradeur type. The owners who also operated Mrs Marple’s Tea Rooms in the Dandenongs have got this gem and I am jealous.

Food was neat and good. But views and ambience makes the food shine even more. Coffee unfortinately was not so good and from looking at our neighbours cups, the standard for that moring was a bit dissapointing compared to other parts of the cafe.

I will be back for some cakes and lunch and I can not wait!

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Chicken marinade

The Japanese have figured many things for the world. The more I find out how top chefs cook (L2O), the more similarities they have with the philosophy of Japanese cuisine.

Skewers of chicken may be just skewers, but one that has a sweet, savory and salty flavour balanced so well with the juicy meat, gently charred over a Japanese grill, the bite is heavenly. A cold malty beer or sake and a few good company then the evening is very complete

Wikipedia gives some info on the fuel for a Japanese grill:

Binch?-tan or white charcoal is a traditional charcoal of Japan. It dates to the Edo period, when during the era, a craftsman named Bitch?-ya Ch?zaemon began to produce it in Tanabe, Wakayama. The raw material is oak, specifically ubame oak, now the official tree of Wakayama Prefecture. Wakayama continues to be a major producer of high-quality charcoal, with the town of Minabe, Wakayama producing more binch?-tan than any other town in Japan. The fineness and high quality of binch?-tan are attributed to steaming at high temperatures. Although it is often thought that binch?-tan burns hot, it actually burns at a lower temperature than ordinary charcoal but for a longer period of time. It does not release smoke or other unpleasant flavors.

My current marinade consist of (in ratio)
- good, non bitter soy (10)
- mirin (5)
- minced garlic (5)
- small amount of black asian vinegar (3)
- shao-xing liquor (made from barley) or can use sake (3)
- sesame oil (2)
- black pepper (1)
- blow torch (30 seconds at the end of cooking). This last bit is the WOW bit

The photo has some finely sliced kaffir lime leaves for a bit of experimenting

If at home and just pan frying marianted chicken the most important touch is get a blow torch and just add a bit more colour on the chicken. It adds that smokey flavour I crave so much from the Japanese grill.
 
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